Hiking Across Madeira 2026: All About the Trek (Map + Tips)

Are you getting ready to hike across the mountains of Madeira? We have put together a guide full of practical tips, including a map with spots we have picked out for camping.

More and more Czechs are setting off across Madeira on foot, and it is no wonder. Madeira is known as the island of eternal spring. You will find exotic flowers practically at every step. On the trek you are accompanied by the island’s typical levadas (irrigation channels) and dramatic views down into the valleys and out over the ocean.

Map of the trek across Madeira

Here we have prepared a detailed map of the trek across Madeira, where you will find places to sleep, spots for refreshments and other places on Madeira worth visiting.

You can open the map straight in Google Maps or export it and upload it into a mobile app such as Locus Map or Mapy.cz. That way the map works completely offline!

• Here you will find all our maps for planning your travels.

⚠️ Updates and news

Madeira has met the fate of overtourism, so new and stricter measures keep being introduced:

• On the official hiking trails marked PR you now need to book a specific day and time in advance.
• Most of the hiking trails now charge a fee.
• Separate rules and a higher fee apply to the mountain route PR1 from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo. The whole PR1 route runs one way, from Pico do Areeiro towards Pico Ruivo.
• Part of the PR1.3 route between Boca das Torrinhas and Encumeada is closed in 2026, so the original traverse currently cannot be walked exactly according to our itinerary.
• Also closed is PR28 Levada da Rocha Vermelha, which carried one of the originally recommended variants between Rabaçal and Fanal.
• Camping in a tent is only allowed at official campsites. The campsite has to be booked in advance and a fee of €5 per person per night paid.
• The spots we listed as possible flat patches for a tent should no longer be taken as legal recommended places to spend the night, but rather as emergency bivouac spots.
• Free movement is also restricted in some environmentally sensitive areas, for example in Fanal. So stick to the marked routes and the permitted places.
• Before you travel, always check the current condition of the trails, any closures, the booking conditions and the availability of the official campsites.

Madeira trek: which direction to go?

If you are wondering which direction to walk the Madeira trek, the logical option remains variant A), that is from east to west.

When we walked across Madeira, you could choose between going from east to west and the opposite direction. The situation is more complicated now, though, because the original route cannot be walked continuously along its whole length.

The mountain route PR1 is currently passable only from Pico do Areeiro to the Pedra Rija viewpoint. Continuing on to Pico Ruivo is closed for now. Once the whole section reopens, the part between Pedra Rija and Pico Ruivo will be one way, in the direction Pico do Areeiro → Pico Ruivo.

On top of that, part of the connecting PR1.3 route between Boca das Torrinhas and Encumeada remains closed. The original trek therefore cannot be walked exactly according to our itinerary at the moment, and some sections have to be walked around, replaced with another route or bridged by transport.

A) From Caniçal (Portela) to Porto Moniz

If you choose to start from Portela (which is easy to reach by bus), you save yourself at least 600 metres of climbing. This direction also matches the one-way regime on PR1, which once fully reopened will only be walkable from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo. At the end of the trek you can look forward to picturesque views of the village of Ribeira da Janela with its beautiful coastal cliffs, and then to a swim in the natural sea pools in Porto Moniz.

On this route you can also save yourself further climbing and energy by hitchhiking (especially from Ribeiro Frio to Pico do Areeiro or from Encumeada to Bica da Cana).

The drawback of this variant can be that you finish on the opposite side of the island from the airport. There is a bus from Porto Moniz to Funchal 2-3 times a day.

B) From Porto Moniz to Caniçal

The direction from Porto Moniz eastwards is more complicated at the moment. A significant climb awaits you in the very first days, and as you continue through the central mountains you run into the closed part of PR1.3.

What is more, once PR1 fully reopens it will not be possible to walk the mountain section in the opposite direction, from Pico Ruivo to Pico do Areeiro. So if you set off from west to east, you will have to break the route before the central mountains, use transport, and then walk the PR1 section separately in the permitted direction.

At the end of the trip you can add a hike along the eastern São Lourenço peninsula. But bear in mind that because of the current closures this will no longer be one continuous walk across the island.

How long does hiking across Madeira take?

You can manage the mountain traverse in 5-7 days depending on your pace, how much you feel like stopping to take in the views, where you start and whether you shorten anything. If you plan to walk the whole trek at full length, it is better to set aside a whole week.

Elevation profile of the route

The individual sections of the trek across Madeira

We describe the individual parts of the trek in the east to west direction.

1) Machico – Caniçal – Portela (20 km)

Machico is a small town about 3 kilometres from the airport, easy to reach by bus. You will find restaurants and accommodation here.

You can start the trek at one of the few sandy beaches on the island. From the very first viewpoint on the Pico do Facho hill there is a beautiful view over the whole town and the bay. The route continues with sea views to Caniçal, where it turns, and the trail along the north coast is fairly overgrown in places (as far as Boca do Risco), where it becomes a better-kept path.

On the section from Boca do Risco to the Larano cable car the trail is practically level. Exposed but secured sections and ocean views await you here.

Then comes the climb up Cabeço da Lapa, and from there the trail runs all the way to Portela. On this section you also meet your first levada.

In Portela you can stop for refreshments at the restaurant opposite the bus stop (they have a nice terrace with a view down into the valley).

If you are short of time you can very easily skip this whole part and start the trek at Portela.

2) Detour to the São Lourenço peninsula

The detour to the peninsula is not counted into the traverse itself, but the peninsula is so beautiful that it would be a shame to leave it out. From Caniçal you can hop on bus line 113 to the terminus at Baía d’Abra, where the peninsula route starts. The trail is 3.6 km one way and the views really are worth it.
Entry to the peninsula now carries a fee (there is an information board at the start of the trail where you can pay it with a QR code).

3) Portela – Ribeiro Frio (11 km)

The whole of the next section is accompanied by the Levada do Furado. If you feel like a swim, in the second half you can cool off at the pool below a waterfall. There are also several flat spots for sleeping or pitching a tent on this section. You will find these places on the map, including one very nice little platform off the path.

In Ribeiro Frio a nice restaurant awaits you by the path, where you can stop for a coffee, a beer or lunch.

4) Detour to the Balcões viewpoint (1.5 km one way)

From Ribeiro Frio you can make a short detour to the Balcões viewpoint along the Levada do Juncal. The whole path is level and you can leave your backpack at the little pub in Ribeiro Frio. It is a nice viewpoint, but if you are short of time you can skip it, because the views from other parts of the trek are better.
Since 1 November 2024 the Vereda dos Balcões has been one of the paid sections; at its start you will meet the fee collectors, and the charge is 3 euros.

5) Ribeiro Frio – Pico do Areeiro (7 km)

Next comes a climb of almost a thousand metres up to the beautiful Pico do Areeiro. The good news is that if you do not fancy walking this less interesting climb, you can hitchhike to the top or take a taxi.

Hitchhiking is very easy here, most people are driving up and you can start asking right at the car park. At the summit of Areeiro you will find another restaurant.

6) Pico do Areeiro – Pico Ruivo (5.4 km)

The crossing from Areeiro to Ruivo is one of the most beautiful sections of the trek. Many people come here on a day trip just to walk this part. Descents and climbs await you, exposed sections and gorgeous views down into both valleys. You also pass through several tunnels.

Pico Ruivo is a popular spot for watching both sunrise and sunset. At the hut below the summit there is drinking water and paid toilets (for a 50-cent coin). A few steps further on, past the turning to the summit, there is a lovely spot with room for several tents.

This section is physically the hardest of all parts of the trek. Be aware that although it is only 5.4 km, it can easily take you half a day.

The PR 1 and PR 2 sections, Vereda do Areeiro and Vereda do Pico Ruivo, now also carry a fee of 3 euros.

7) Pico Ruivo – Encumeada (10 km)

Another beautiful mountain section leads to the Encumeada pass. You will be taking in lovely views south towards the well-known Valley of the Nuns (Curral das Freiras) and then north over the valley around São Vicente. Encumeada is another stop with a restaurant where you can recharge your batteries (and not just the one in your phone).
⚠️UPDATE: For now, though, the part of PR1.3 between Boca das Torrinhas and Encumeada remains closed. From Boca das Torrinhas you can continue on PR2 towards Curral das Freiras or Boaventura, but not directly along the original route to Encumeada.

8) Encumeada – Bica da Cana/Pico Ruivo do Paul (10/13 km)

Your second chance to speed the trek up and save yourself 500 metres of climbing comes on this very section. Hitchhiking is easy here again, because quite a few cars are heading up to the plateau.

On foot, two really long tunnels with a levada await you on this section, for which you will need a head torch or at least your phone light. If you choose this variant of the route, it makes more sense to walk all the way to the campsite at Pico Ruivo do Paul.

Otherwise, right by the road near Bica da Cana there is a lovely nature park with picnic tables, toilets, a barbecue and drinking water. You can spend the night either in this little park or pitch your tent at the viewpoint by the top of the hill. It really is a gorgeous view down into the valley with the town of São Vicente.

9) Bica da Cana – Lajeado – Rabaçal (12 km)

Crossing the plateau you walk between wind turbines, and you can also make a detour to another Pico Ruivo, this time with the suffix “do Paul”. A beautiful section where you can swim several times over is around the Lajeado river. From there a levada takes you almost all the way to the campsite at Casa Rabaçal. The camping spot is nice, with picnic tables. You can fill up on drinking water at the fountain by the café. The ideal thing is to leave your backpacks here and walk out to the 25 Fountains and the Risco waterfall.

Casa Rabaçal is a slightly more upmarket café and patisserie, but they have beer too. Prices here are a little higher than at the previous restaurants.

10) The 25 Fountains and the Risco waterfall (5.5 km)

You can make the trip to these two waterfalls without your backpacks (you can leave them at the café or tucked away by the camping spot with the tables). These are again beautiful places that tourists come to on a day trip.

The 25 Fountains is a waterfall joined by another 24 smaller streams, while Risco is a real giant. It consists of two cascades, the first 90 metres high and the second 120.

11) Rabaçal – Fanal Forest (12 km)

From Rabaçal you follow the beautiful Levada da Rocha Vermelha, and at its end one rather unpleasant uphill section awaits you, followed by a level stretch and a descent to the Fanal laurel forest. An alternative is the path that continues on past the 25 Fountains all the way to Fanal. Fanal has a lovely campsite with tables, a barbecue and drinking water. This place has a magic of its own. Grassy hillocks dotted with ancient laurel trees, with cows grazing between them. The oldest trees are estimated to be up to 800 years old! No wonder the forest is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

⚠️ UPDATE: The variant described here along the Levada da Rocha Vermelha – PR28 is currently closed. For the route between the Rabaçal area and Fanal you have to choose an alternative and check the current state of PR13 and PR13.1.

12) Fanal Forest – Ribeira da Janela – Porto Moniz (16 km)

From Fanal a descent awaits you into the picturesque village of Ribeira da Janela. The village is full of flowers and above all there is a beautiful view of the cliffs (we recommend walking all the way down to the beach).

There is a small pub in the village (Bar do Negrinho) where you can also get something to eat at local prices. There is an official campsite with facilities here too.

You can carry on over the hill to another lovely town, Porto Moniz, where as a reward for the whole trek you can enjoy a swim in the natural sea pools. In Porto Moniz you can already choose from a wider range of restaurants and cafés. You can also stock up at one of the shops.

Buses to Funchal leave Porto Moniz twice a day and also stop in Ribeira da Janela.

Practical tips for hiking across Madeira

Transport to the start of the trek

Buses Funchal – Porto Moniz run 3 times a day. You will find the timetables on the website of Rodoeste (which operates on the west coast of Madeira). On the Funchal – Porto Moniz route you have to change, but the drivers will happily tell you which bus to take and where to wait (they will only sell you one ticket, though, so keep it safe – you will need to show it again).

Bus connections from Funchal to Caniçal, Machico or Portela can be found on the website of the bus company SAM. On the map just click on the line number and its timetable appears.

As well as ordinary buses, there is also an Aerobus from the airport (the ride from the airport to the centre of Funchal costs 5 euros). Ordinary buses are a little cheaper.

Finding your way around the local buses is quite complicated, but on the other hand you can get almost anywhere by bus and they are fairly cheap. Google does not work very well, but the site Rome2rio.com proved very useful (even that is not 100 % reliable, though). The safest bet is the websites of the individual operators.

The following maps may also help (click to enlarge and you can print them):

Bookings and fees for the hiking trails

From 2026 you can no longer simply turn up on the official trails marked PR without a booking. For each section you have to pick a date and an available entry time through the SIMplifica portal. This applies for example to PR1, PR3, PR6, PR8, PR10, PR11, PR13 and other sections the traverse uses.

On a multi-day traverse that is fairly complicated, because you have to estimate in advance what time you will reach the start of each PR trail. So book with some time to spare and bear in mind that bad weather, tiredness or a closed section can change your itinerary.

The current prices for ordinary visitors are:

• a single trail other than PR1: €4.50,
• the whole of PR1 Pico do Areeiro → Pico Ruivo: €10.50,
• two or more treks in a single day: €9,
• a multi-day rate for 3 days: €22.50,
• a multi-day rate for 7 days: €52.50.

Restaurants along the trek

If you want to stop for a meal in a restaurant now and then, there are some options, but not along the whole length of the trek. You can stop for food at these places:

• Portela
• Ribeiro Frio
• Pico do Areeiro
• Below Pico Ruivo (drinks only)
• Encumeada
• Rabaçal (there is only a café here)
• Ribeira da Janela

Food supplies

You can buy food supplies for the trek in the local supermarkets; we recommend Continente, which have a wide choice. The one very practical thing we recommend bringing with you is MANA (powdered expedition food that saves you both space and kilos in your backpack).

You can top up water as you go; springs and other drinking water sources are marked on the maps. 

Prices and paying

In most places paying by card is no problem. If you do not have one yet, we recommend the Revolut card, which can save you a fair bit on exchange rates.

Prices on Madeira are comparable to the price level in the Czech Republic. Some things are more expensive, some cheaper. We were pleasantly surprised by the prices of coffee and desserts in the cafés.

Mass tourism has gradually reached Madeira too, so on the traverse expect to come across places (sections of levadas and hiking trails) that now charge a fee.

Madeira and sleeping outdoors / wild camping

Madeira has its official website MadeiraCamping, where you will find all the official campsites for sleeping outdoors along the route. You can register a night at a campsite (apply for a permit) here. In practice you can find more spots along the route that are suitable for spending the night (we have marked some of them on our map). For a legal and safe night, choose only from the official campsites currently available in the booking system.

We recommend taking a warmer sleeping bag (three-season). Even in summer the temperatures tend to be lower than you might think. Especially at shaded campsites in enclosed valleys.

Gear for the trek

If you already have a few treks behind you, you certainly have your favourite gear. If I had to name one thing that will make hiking across Madeira much easier, it is trekking poles. Your knees will really thank you for them, especially on the steep descents. 

The second highlight is ultralight, packable sleeping mats.

You will also find useful:

• A three-season sleeping bag (it can be cold even in summer, do not take only a summer bag)
• A head torch
• A power bank (you can charge in the restaurants, but there are days when you will have no chance to charge)
• Sunscreen
• Sunglasses
• A hat
• Camera/GoPro/phone
• A first aid kit
• Travel insurance (through this link you get a 50% discount on AXA insurance)
• Offline maps (we recommend Locus or Mapy.cz)

If you are interested in what specific gear we use and recommend, take a look here.

More practical tips

Language and communicating with locals

Madeira belongs to Portugal, so the official language is Portuguese. But there is no problem communicating in English or Spanish.

Flights to Madeira

Return flights to Madeira can normally be found for CZK 7,000-8,000. Deals appear during the year where you can get flights even cheaper. Here you will find tips on how to find cheap flights.

Where to buy a gas canister?

To buy a gas canister you unfortunately have to go into the centre of Funchal. There is no outdoor shop anywhere near the airport or in Machico. Buy at this outdoor shop. The cheapest canisters are at Decathlon, but that is quite far from the centre. If they are sold out, try this shop as well, Agricola.

Definitely do not bring a gas canister from home. Carrying canisters on a plane is strictly forbidden (even in checked baggage).

Inaccurate contour lines

Be aware that unlike in almost any other destination, on Madeira the maps give a considerably distorted figure for elevation gain (the problem is mainly with sections along levadas, which essentially follow the contour, but the maps do not see this and heavily overstate those sections). Distance works fine.

When is the best time to hike across Madeira?

The best months for visiting Madeira are May to September. You can go at other times too, but remember that the rainiest months are from November to February.

Personally we can wholeheartedly recommend May, because in May the island is a botanical garden and the scent of flowers is literally at every step. Temperatures are pleasant, around 22 °C. Ideal for a trek.

The warmest sea is from July to September.

The data reports measurements in Funchal. As a general rule, the north coast is twice as rainy and temperatures in the mountains are lower than on the coast.

How long to go for?

The whole trek on foot across Madeira takes about 5-7 days, depending on your pace, the direction you choose and whether you shorten the route anywhere. That is why we recommend going to Madeira for at least 10 days, so that you can also enjoy swimming in the sea pools and discovering other beautiful places and towns.

Map of the trek across Madeira

Here we have prepared a detailed map of the trek across Madeira, where you will find places to sleep, spots for refreshments and other places on Madeira worth visiting.

You can export the map and upload it into a mobile app such as Locus Map or Maps.me. That way the map works completely offline!

• Here you will find all our maps for planning your travels.

Accommodation before / after the trek

Depending on where you start and finish, there are essentially 3 options – Machico, Porto Moniz and Funchal.

Machico is a picturesque little town with a bay and a sandy beach a short way from the airport. It is also, in practice, the start/end of the trek. Very nice accommodation with breakfast is offered by White Waters Hotel, which is very close to the beach.

Funchal I would recommend to everyone who loves coastal towns. It has a beautiful harbour and there are plenty of nice restaurants and cafés. From the airport you are in the centre of Funchal in half an hour. Beautiful apartments in the city centre near the harbour are offered by Isabella Studios Funchal.

Porto Moniz is a coastal town at the western end of Madeira, with gorgeous natural pools (the ideal refreshment for the start or finish of hiking across Madeira with a backpack). Accommodation with beautiful views is offered for example by Pérola Views Inn.

What else to see on Madeira?

We have put together a big guide for you:

• Madeira: 37 amazing places you have to see!
• Madeira from A to Z: guide, practical tips, map
• The Azores from A to Z – practical tips, treks and top spots

Save it for later and for your friends:

Madeira on foot with a backpack – FAQ – frequently asked questions:

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